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Tuesday, November 30, 2004 Vol II Issue 4 Publisher: Janet Bullard webmaster@magnoliawalker.com © 2004 All Rights Reserved ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ < br> This is an opt-in newsletter only! THIS IS NOT SPAM! If you wish to know how you were subscribed, please email me at: mailto:webmaster@magnoliawalker.com?s ubject=How-was-I-subscribed we keep files for each subscriber and will be glad to send you the information. If you would like to be removed from this newsletter the instructions are at the end of this publication. My subscribers are very important to me and are not made available to other companies or individuals. Every subscriber's privacy is valued and respected. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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Take a minute out of your day and pray. Eloquency impresses only Man. %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% In Today's Issue:
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| Winterizing the Landscape in Fall From David Beaulieu, Your Guide to Landscaping. FREE Newsletter. Sign Up Now! Tips for Fall Lawn Care, Winterizing Gardens As winter approaches, there are a number of fall chores for the landscaper to complete in order to ready the landscape for the next growing season. Let's take a look at some of the required chores, breaking them down by landscaping category. Fall Lawn Care: Apply herbicides to broadleaf weeds Correcting pH: if a soil test should show a need to reduce acidity, apply lime now. Thatch removal: dethatch your lawn, by raking; for bad cases of soil compaction, you may have to employ the technique known as core aeration. Rake leaves, lest the leaves smother your grass over the winter. To maximize your landscaping efficiency when raking leaves, consult Fall Cleanup: Make Mulch and Compost With the Leaves That You Rake . Lawn mower care: make sure to drain old gas after last mowing. Note: You should already have applied fertilizer to cool season grasses early in the fall. Since these grasses grow most vigorously during the cool months, it is precisely at this time that they can best use the nutrients provided by a fertilizer. Fertilization helps the lawn recover from the summer heat and prepares it for the next growing season. Winterizing Annual beds: After harvesting your fruits and flowers, remove old plant matter from the garden, placing it in your compost bin. Leaving it behind in the garden would invite plant diseases next growing season. Rototill your garden soil. Rototilling now may seem premature; but it will make your spring rototilling work go much easier. Make a habit of rototilling each year both in the fall and in the spring. Drain the old gas out of the rototiller afterwards. If you are going to rototill, this is the time to apply lime (if soil tests have indicated that your pH is too low). The effects of liming don't manifest themselves for several months, so liming in the spring is too late for next year's crop. Protect your topsoil from the rigors of winter. You have two options here: You can plant a cover crop for large beds. Or you can apply a mulch. Mulching is more efficient for smaller beds. And landscapers have a ready source of mulch in the leaves that they rake. Some garden experts recommend spreading compost on the soil as well at this time. I personally disagree with this strategy, feeling that it is a waste of compost. I recommend keeping your compost protected in a compost bin during the winter, waiting until planting season to spread it in the garden. Winterizing Trees and Shrubs: Winterize small deciduous shrubs that have fragile branches with a lean-to or some other sort of structure to keep heavy snows off their limbs. Deciduous shrubs provide no interest in winter anyways, so you are not losing anything visually by covering them. Evergreens, by contrast, are the cornerstone of winter landscaping aesthetics. To a great degree winterizing trees and larger shrubs can be achieved simply by watering them properly in the fall, since the winter damage that they sustain often stems from their inability to draw water from the frozen earth. "Avoid watering trees in late summer or early fall before the leaves fall so they can 'harden off' for winter," states Sherry Lajeunesse, in a Montana State University Extension article. "Then in late fall, after deciduous trees drop their leaves but before the ground freezes, give both evergreen and deciduous trees and shrubs a final deep watering to last them through the winter." The same source also reminds us to "water under the entire canopy area and beyond," to cover the entire root area. Putting Perennial Gardens to Bed But your fall landscaping chores and winterizing work aren't done yet. Below are some of the miscellaneous tasks still to be done for winterizing gardens and more. Of course, you may have specific features on your landscape that will require additional winterizing in the fall. For instance, owners of in-ground swimming pools or elaborate water gardens will have to engage in winterizing tasks specific to these features. Always follow manufacturers' recommendations. Perennial garden beds ideally should be cleaned up and mulched in the fall. Remove old stalks and leaves -- you'll have to do so in the spring anyways, so you might as well be a step ahead. But if, for whatever reason, you are not able to mulch your perennial beds in the fall, then do not clean away the old stalks and leaves either -- they will serve as a makeshift mulch, affording some small degree of protection to the roots of your perennials. In other words, the cleaning and the mulching go together: either do both or neither one. But it is best to do both, in order to keep your garden disease-free and well insulated. Winterizing your compost bin. You have worked hard all spring, summer and fall building up your compost pile and mixing it to achieve optimal decomposition. Don't let any of your work go to waste! You don't want precious nutrients eroding away or being swept off by wintery gusts. If your compost bin has no cover, then cover it with a tarp in the fall. To insulate it from winter freezing so as to hasten its usability in spring, apply a layer of raked leaves on top and all around the perimeter (bagging the leaves if necessary to hold them in place). Bring in the garden hose, too, and go down into the basement to turn off its water source in the fall. You don't want those pipes bursting when the temperatures fall into the teens, do you? But don't think that you must bring everything inside just because fall begins announcing the winter doldrums. Some landscaping concerns are ongoing, and those don't take a timeout for winter. For instance, if you're a landscaper blessed with having to battle Japanese knotweed, you can't afford to let your guard down -- ever. As I write in my look at Eradicating Japanese Knotweed, an effective eradication method for Japanese knotweed is to smother it with heavy, opaque plastic mulch -- i.e., tarps. Don't remove the tarps in fall! If you simply keep the tarps on all winter, you will immediately deprive the leaves of next spring's Japanese knotweed shoots of the light that they require -- they'll never have a chance to lead productive lives.... Finally, with winter approaching, your "pampered beasts" are no longer going to be the lawn mower and rototiller. The snowblower is again ready to assume that honor. Snow is as much a reality of the northern landscape in winter as grass is in summer. Pamper your snowblower accordingly! The following tips on readying the snowblower for winter come courtesy of Chase-Pitkin Home and Garden:
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